Siena and San Gimignano in one day: a long, popular excursion

Before you start: logistics rule the day

San Gimignano is about forty minutes by car north-west of Siena. With a car the day flows; without one there are buses between the two towns, and depending on the service and the day you may have to change at Poggibonsi, so check times and, above all, the last bus back before you commit. San Gimignano's old centre is pedestrian and parking is outside the walls, which adds a few minutes on foot. If you are sleeping in Siena the trip is reasonable; if you are coming from another city, it becomes very tight.

The key is the order. The sensible plan is to go to San Gimignano first and return to Siena in the early afternoon: the town gets crowded in summer, and arriving early is the best defence. Siena copes with a later visit better than its neighbour, and its cathedral needs more time than anything in San Gimignano.

Morning in San Gimignano: two tickets, one tower

Enter through the Porta San Giovanni and walk up Via San Giovanni to the squares at the heart of the town. The two things worth booking are there: the Collegiata and its Museum of Sacred Art, on Piazza del Duomo, a collegiate church with painted decoration, and the Civic Museums in the Palazzo Comunale. Depending on the route, the Civic Museums let you climb a tower, which is the best way to enjoy the views: of the 72 towers that once stood, around fourteen survive, and the Torre Grossa, from the early 14th century, rises above fifty metres.

Two and a half to three hours covers both visits at a calm pace, plus a break. Expect some wandering past ceramics shops and gelato counters in between; you do not have to stop at all of them. For lunch, choose a place on a side lane rather than on the main square, and keep it light, because the afternoon goes on.

Afternoon in Siena: the cathedral and the Campo

In Siena the star is the Duomo, a Gothic cathedral clad in white and greenish marble in horizontal bands: white and black are the city's colours. Inside, look for the inlaid floor with religious and pagan scenes, the pulpit by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano and an altar with early sculptures by Michelangelo. Depending on the ticket, the visit may also include the cathedral works museum, home to Duccio's Maestà. Book a time slot, and check whether the floor is uncovered on your dates, because it is sometimes protected.

A few steps away is Santa Maria della Scala, a former hospital opposite the cathedral, now a museum. It is the visit that gets sacrificed: either you do it and shorten your free time on Piazza del Campo, or you skip it and keep the square. Without a car, because of return times, it usually stays out. If you are not in a hurry, close the day sitting on the Campo, which is what works best at the end.

What to leave out without guilt

The Museo Civico in Siena is a great visit if you have a second day; it does not fit in this route. You also do not need to climb every tower or enter every church. And if you find you are running late, it is better to spend more time in one of the two towns than to rush between them.